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Little Shop of Coral

Marine Betta (Calloplesiops altivelis)

Marine Betta (Calloplesiops altivelis)

Regular price $180.00 CAD
Regular price Sale price $180.00 CAD
Sale Sold out

The Marine Betta, also known as the Comet, is one of the most elegantly bizarre fish in the marine hobby and a genuine favourite among experienced keepers who appreciate subtlety, behaviour, and genuine character over flashy colouration. Its deep brown-black body is covered in a galaxy of fine white spots that extend across the head, body, and the large, sail-like fins that give this fish its unmistakable silhouette. A prominent ocellus, a bold false eye spot, sits on the posterior portion of the dorsal fin: the centrepiece of one of the most convincing and studied predator mimicry strategies in the reef fish world. When threatened, the Marine Betta reverses itself partway into a crevice, fins fanned and held erect, transforming its spotted tail end into a near-perfect imitation of the head of the Whitemouth Moray Eel (Gymnothorax meleagris), a dangerous animal that most reef predators wisely give a wide berth. That the same fish uses this false eye to disorient its own prey as it approaches sideways, masking which end is the mouth, makes it one of the most behaviourally layered animals available in the hobby. Shy at first, quietly confident once settled, and capable of becoming a genuine centrepiece specimen that interacts with its keeper, this is a fish that rewards the keeper who takes the time to understand it.

Why we love it

  • One of the most uniquely silhouetted fish in the hobby: the swept, sail-like fins and white-spotted galaxy pattern on a dark body is instantly recognisable and unlike anything else in the trade
  • Possesses one of the most sophisticated and well-documented predator mimicry strategies of any reef fish, perfectly replicating the head of a moray eel when threatened
  • Becomes meaningfully interactive over time; settled individuals learn to recognise their keeper and will emerge to beg for food, a behaviour that consistently surprises and charms first-time Marine Betta keepers
  • Hardy and disease-resistant once established, with a reputation for exceptional durability that belies its exotic appearance
  • Captive-bred specimens are available through a small number of specialist breeders including ORA, and are the preferred choice for their improved adaptability and food response

Suggested parameters

  • Temperature: 22–27°C (72–80°F)
  • Salinity: 1.020–1.025 SG
  • pH: 8.1–8.4
  • Alkalinity: 8–12 dKH
  • Ammonia/Nitrite: 0
  • Nitrate: Under 20 ppm; stable, established water chemistry supports the long-term health and confidence of this species

Care and temperament

  • Difficulty: Moderate. The main challenge is getting the fish feeding reliably in the first weeks; once eating well it is among the easier larger carnivores to maintain
  • Temperament: Peaceful toward fish too large to be prey; a slow, deliberate predator that will consume small fish and crustaceans it can overpower without any aggression toward larger tankmates
  • Reef safe: With caution. Corals and sessile invertebrates are completely safe. Small ornamental shrimp, particularly those introduced after the Marine Betta is established, are at significant risk. Large cleaner shrimp and similarly sized invertebrates are generally left alone, particularly in well-fed systems
  • Minimum tank size: 55 gallons for a single specimen; 125 gallons or larger is preferred for long-term keeping and for any system that includes multiple fish of similar size. The tank must include extensive cave and overhang structure

Diet

The Marine Betta is a slow, stalking carnivore that approaches prey sideways and uses patience rather than speed, and its feeding approach in captivity reflects that.

  • Live saltwater feeder shrimp or ghost shrimp are often the most reliable way to trigger a feeding response in newly introduced or reluctant specimens; the transition off live food should be pursued patiently and gradually
  • Frozen mysis shrimp, vitamin-enriched brine shrimp, krill, and chopped marine meats including squid and clam form the core frozen diet once established
  • Dry pellets are rarely accepted and should not be relied upon
  • Offer at least one feeding session after the display lights are dimmed or off; this species is crepuscular to nocturnal and is far more likely to feed actively in low light conditions
  • Target feeding with a feeding stick or turkey baster is strongly recommended, particularly in community systems where faster fish may outcompete this slow, deliberate eater
  • Feed 2 to 4 times per week once established; overfeeding degrades water quality and is not necessary for this species

Compatibility and tankmates

  • An excellent community FOWLR fish when paired with species of similar or larger size that are not aggressive or boisterous: tangs, larger angelfish, larger wrasses, rabbitfish, and foxfaces are all appropriate companions
  • Will consume small fish, small ornamental shrimp, and any crustacean that fits in its mouth; avoid housing with gobies, small cardinalfish, small clownfish, dartfish, or any fish small enough to be regarded as prey
  • Should not be housed with fast, aggressive feeders like damsels, dottybacks, or triggerfish that will outcompete it at feeding time and may prevent it from eating reliably
  • Generally tolerant of conspecifics in sufficiently large systems with ample cave structure, unlike many predatory fish; multiple individuals can coexist if introduced together and given distinct shelter zones
  • Avoid strong flow immediately around its primary shelter areas; this species is a relatively poor swimmer and does not fare well in turbulent zones

Health and acclimation notes

The Marine Betta's most challenging period is the first few weeks after introduction, during which it will typically spend the majority of its time hidden in rockwork and may refuse all food. This is completely normal behaviour and should be expected rather than treated as a problem. A cave-rich aquascape with multiple shelter options at different depths gives the fish the security it needs to begin exploring and feeding on its own schedule. Dimming the display lights during feeding, target feeding with live or frozen offerings, and ensuring no boisterous tankmates are competing aggressively at the surface all help significantly during this period. Once the Marine Betta begins eating reliably, it is one of the more disease-resistant and durable fish available; it is notably less susceptible to marine ich and velvet than many other species of comparable size. A tight-fitting lid is recommended. Spots on the body and fins grow smaller and more numerous as the fish matures, and the spots on the median fins gradually elongate and merge into lines; this is normal development and not a sign of concern.

What you are buying

  • You will receive: 1 Marine Betta (Calloplesiops altivelis)
  • Colouring is a deep brown-black base with fine white spots throughout; spot size decreases and density increases as the fish matures, and the median fin spots elongate and merge with age
  • The prominent ocellus on the dorsal fin is present in all individuals and becomes more defined with maturity
  • Size and exact spotting pattern may vary between individuals; please see size options at checkout
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LIGHT

LOW: Place coral at the bottom of the tank. Depending on the type, coral may need to be placed off sand and therefore mounted on a ceramic disc of piece of rock.

MEDIUM: Place coral at mid-range of the tank. Best placed/glued on top of a rock scape at mid-range height. 

HIGH: Place coral from mid range to just below water level. SPS coral are shallow growing so they require and are able to tolerate intense light.

FLOW

LOW: Most soft coral do well with a small, gentle pulse. There are certain corals that can even be placed in areas of indirect flow, meaning places aside a rock structure or set into a entrance to a cave style space.

MEDIUM: Many LPS types of coral prefer medium pulse current. Most Euphyllia or corals that have more tissue structure connected to their skeleton, don’t like to be in a high flow area like the direct flow of the wave pump.

HIGH: Similar to high light, SPS enjoy being in some heavy current. Most LPS and SPS that branch encrust or plate prefer high flow that simulates the top water waves.

SKILL

ENTRY: While some may say beginner level, "Entry" is a good term to be used when starting out in the world of corals and marine life. Prior to adding livestock, you want to ensure that your reef has the proper parameters including zero levels of ammonia and nitrite. Seeing traces of nitrate in your waters is a good sign - just keep them at a lower level of 2ppm to 10ppm. Maintaining correct temperature and salinity are a huge factor to stable parameters. Starting to monitor your PH, alkalinity, calcium and magnesium is a great habit to get into to keep a successful reef.

While some soft coral don’t require too much light, having a proper reef light that puts out the proper pars is very important. You'll also want to have a good amount of flow and protected rock areas, as placing corals in their happy spot is ideal for success.

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