Fire Shrimp (Lysmata debelius)

The Fire Shrimp is one of the most visually striking invertebrates available in the reef hobby, and one that earns its place in a system through both beauty and genuine utility. Its brilliant blood-red body is accented with white spots and the long, trailing white antennae that are a signature of the Lysmata genus, creating a combination so vivid it looks almost painted. Also known as the Blood Red Shrimp, Scarlet Cleaner Shrimp, and Blood Fire Shrimp, L. debelius is one of a group of Lysmata species that fulfil the role of cleaner shrimp in reef ecosystems, removing parasites, dead tissue, and debris from willing fish. It is shy by nature and tends to stay tucked in crevices and overhangs during bright daylight, but patient hobbyists who give it time to settle are rewarded with one of the most captivating and functional invertebrates in the hobby.

Why we love it

• Jaw-dropping blood red colouration with crisp white spots and flowing white antennae, a genuine reef showpiece
• Active cleaner that establishes a station within the rockwork and services fish that solicit its attention
• Simultaneous hermaphrodite, meaning any two individuals can mate; pairs can be kept and will breed readily in captivity
• Hardy and forgiving once established, suitable for a wide range of reef systems
• Fascinating nocturnal behaviour rewards patient observation, particularly in systems with subdued evening lighting

Suggested parameters

• Temperature: 24 to 26°C (75 to 79°F)
• Salinity: 1.025 to 1.026 SG
• pH: 8.1 to 8.4
• Alkalinity: 8 to 10 dKH
• Calcium: 400 to 450 ppm
• Magnesium: 1250 to 1400 ppm
• Nitrate: 5 to 20 ppm
• Phosphate: 0.03 to 0.12 ppm
• Copper-based medications are immediately fatal to all shrimp and invertebrates and must never be used

Care and temperament

• Difficulty: Easy
• Temperament: Peaceful toward most tankmates; will defend its immediate cave or crevice territory
• Reef safe: Generally yes, with the note that some individuals have been reported to pick at LPS and SPS coral polyps, particularly at night; this behaviour is not universal but is worth monitoring in coral-heavy systems
• Minimum tank size: 30 gallons with ample live rock and crevice space
• The tank should have structures offering caves and recesses for the shrimp to find refuge and establish a cleaning station
• Primarily nocturnal and shy; during strong daytime lighting it will typically remain in shaded overhangs, becoming more active as lights dim in the evening; timed evening feeding sessions can coax it into the open more frequently over time
• A tight-fitting lid is recommended; shrimp can jump, especially around molting

Diet

Fire Shrimp are carnivorous opportunists and easy feeders in most reef systems.

• Will scavenge meaty foods, frozen mysis shrimp, brine shrimp, and pellets that drift near its cave
• Target feeding near the shrimp's established station with a feeding stick or pipette is the most reliable way to ensure it gets enough food, particularly in competitive systems
• Accepts most quality frozen marine foods including krill, mysis, and enriched brine shrimp
• Supplemental iodine via regular water changes supports healthy molting and exoskeleton formation
• Feed two to three times per week; supplement with target feeding if competition from fish is high

Compatibility and tankmates

• Excellent with clownfish, tangs, gobies, blennies, dartfish, and most peaceful to semi-aggressive reef fish
• Can be kept in groups or alongside other cleaner shrimp species; any two fire shrimp can form a mated pair given sufficient space and territory
• Avoid triggerfish, pufferfish, large hawkfish, and large aggressive wrasses that will hunt and eat shrimp
• Generally ignores corals and ornamental invertebrates outside of the occasional polyp nipping behaviour noted above
• Porcelain crabs, hermit crabs, and other small reef invertebrates are safe companions

Health and acclimation notes

Fire Shrimp are sensitive to sudden changes in water chemistry and salinity; careful drip acclimation over at least one hour is essential before introduction. During molting, the shrimp will become completely reclusive and may not be seen at all for several days; this is completely normal and not a cause for concern. The shed exoskeleton left behind after a molt should be left in the tank for the shrimp to consume, as it is a valuable source of calcium and minerals for the new shell. Copper-based medications must never be used in any system housing this or any other invertebrate.

What you are buying

• You will receive: 1 Fire Shrimp (Lysmata debelius)
• Colouration is deep blood red with white spots and white antennae; intensity can vary slightly between individuals and may appear even more vivid once the shrimp has settled into stable, clean water

Drip acclimation of at least one hour is strongly recommended. Copper-based medications must never be used in any system housing this animal.