Little Shop of Coral
Bird Wrasse (Gomphosus varius)
Bird Wrasse (Gomphosus varius)
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Few fish in the hobby turn heads quite like the Bird Wrasse. With its dramatically elongated, beak-like snout and the way it propels itself through the water by flapping its pectoral fins in an almost wing-like motion, Gomphosus varius genuinely earns its common name. Males are a stunning teal to emerald green from snout to tail, while females wear a striking two-tone of dark brown-black on top and white below. Both phases are bold, active, and highly entertaining to keep. This is one of those rare fish that's as easy to care for as it is visually unique, making it a standout choice for larger FOWLR systems.
Why we love it
- One of the most visually distinctive wrasses in the hobby, with an unmistakable beak-like snout
- Males are brilliant emerald green; females offer striking two-tone contrast with bold personality to match
- Protogynous hermaphrodite: all fish are born female, and the dominant individual can transition to male, making pairs a fascinating long-term project
- Propels itself by flapping its pectoral fins rather than undulating, giving it a flight-like swimming style unlike any other wrasse
- Hardy, accepts a wide variety of meaty foods readily, and rarely refuses to eat once settled
- A natural hunter of nuisance crabs and other unwanted crustaceans in the rockwork
Suggested parameters
- Temperature: 23–26°C (72–78°F)
- Salinity: 1.020–1.025 SG
- pH: 8.1–8.4
- Alkalinity: 8–12 dKH
- Ammonia/Nitrite: 0
- Nitrate: Under 30 ppm in a stable system
Care and temperament
- Difficulty: Easy
- Temperament: Semi-aggressive, particularly toward smaller fish and any motile invertebrates
- Reef safe: No. Will actively hunt and eat ornamental shrimp, small crabs, and other crustaceans. Will also target small, slender fish it can fit in its mouth. Best suited to FOWLR systems
- Minimum tank size: 125 gallons, with open swimming lanes being as important as raw volume
Diet
The Bird Wrasse is a straightforward, enthusiastic carnivore.
- Frozen mysis shrimp and vitamin-enriched brine shrimp
- Chopped clams, krill, squid, and other meaty marine preparations
- High-quality carnivore pellets as a supplement
- Soaking foods in a vitamin and fatty acid supplement is strongly recommended given this species' high metabolism
- Feed 2 to 3 times per day; small, regular offerings suit its active lifestyle and fast metabolic rate
Compatibility and tankmates
- Best kept with bold, assertive tankmates that are too large to be considered prey: larger angelfish, tangs, triggerfish, pufferfish, and lionfish are all good candidates
- Will eat ornamental shrimp, small crabs, hermit crabs, and other motile invertebrates without hesitation
- Small or slender fish are at risk; avoid pairing with gobies, dartfish, small wrasses, or similarly sized peaceful species
- If keeping a male-female pair, introduce the female first, or add both simultaneously to reduce aggression during establishment
- Can be kept as one male with multiple females in a large enough system; the dominant female will naturally transition to male if the male is absent
Health and acclimation notes
The Bird Wrasse is one of the hardier wrasses and typically transitions onto frozen foods without much persuasion. Unlike many wrasse species, it does not bury itself in sand to sleep, so substrate type and depth are not a concern. A tight-fitting lid is absolutely essential, as this species is a known and capable jumper. Because it is active throughout the water column and bold at feeding time, ensure that any more passive tankmates can compete for food. Quarantine is always recommended before introduction into an established system.
What you are buying
- You will receive: 1 Bird Wrasse (Gomphosus varius) in your choice of male or female
- Males are vivid teal to emerald green; females are dark brown-black dorsally with a white ventral half
- Colouring intensity can vary between individuals and by region of origin
- Size and exact patterning may vary; please see our size options at checkout

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LIGHT
LOW: Place coral at the bottom of the tank. Depending on the type, coral may need to be placed off sand and therefore mounted on a ceramic disc of piece of rock.
MEDIUM: Place coral at mid-range of the tank. Best placed/glued on top of a rock scape at mid-range height.Â
HIGH: Place coral from mid range to just below water level. SPS coral are shallow growing so they require and are able to tolerate intense light.
FLOW
LOW: Most soft coral do well with a small, gentle pulse. There are certain corals that can even be placed in areas of indirect flow, meaning places aside a rock structure or set into a entrance to a cave style space.
MEDIUM: Many LPS types of coral prefer medium pulse current. Most Euphyllia or corals that have more tissue structure connected to their skeleton, don’t like to be in a high flow area like the direct flow of the wave pump.
HIGH: Similar to high light, SPS enjoy being in some heavy current. Most LPS and SPS that branch encrust or plate prefer high flow that simulates the top water waves.
SKILL
ENTRY: While some may say beginner level, "Entry" is a good term to be used when starting out in the world of corals and marine life. Prior to adding livestock, you want to ensure that your reef has the proper parameters including zero levels of ammonia and nitrite. Seeing traces of nitrate in your waters is a good sign - just keep them at a lower level of 2ppm to 10ppm. Maintaining correct temperature and salinity are a huge factor to stable parameters. Starting to monitor your PH, alkalinity, calcium and magnesium is a great habit to get into to keep a successful reef.
While some soft coral don’t require too much light, having a proper reef light that puts out the proper pars is very important. You'll also want to have a good amount of flow and protected rock areas, as placing corals in their happy spot is ideal for success.
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