Little Shop of Coral
Aquaforest Reef Mineral Salt 5kg
Aquaforest Reef Mineral Salt 5kg
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Reef Mineral Salt – an agent to maintain constant levels of minerals in coral reef aquaria. Dissolve 25g of the product in 1000ml of deionized water. To maintain ion stability, use KH Buffer, Magnesium and Calcium products as well.
USE: Dissolve 6.14 tbsp of the product in 1 US gal. of deionized water.
HOW REEF MINERAL SALT WORKS?
Aquaforest Reef Mineral Salt is a Sodium Chloride (NaCl) free sea salt. It contains all the other basic components found in natural seawater, such as Magnesium, Calcium, Potassium, Bromine, Fluorine, Barium, Iodine, and trace elements.
NaCl free salt is one of the most important components of the Balling method, and it plays a significant role when Calcium Chloride and Sodium Bicarbonate supplementation is in place.
It is a common misconception among reefers that administering NaCl free salt is primarily supposed to replenish trace elements. The main task of Sodium Chloride free salt is to maintain ionic balance of aquarium water.
This practice is based on an important discovery made by Prof William Dittmar, a chemical analyst, and the “rule of constant proportions”. He analysed water samples from oceans and seas around the globe and documented that the composition of natural sea water remains constant, even though the salinity varies.
So what is the significance of adding NaCl free salt when administering Calcium Chloride and Sodium Bicarbonate? Many marine organisms (e.g. hard corals) require Calcium Carbonate (CaCO3) to grow their calcareous structures. This crucial substance is insoluble in natural seawater, so one way to work around this problem is administration of Ca++ and HCO3 in the form of water-soluble Calcium Chloride (CaCl2) and Sodium Bicarbonate (NaHCO3). This method has a drawback though – in the form of unwanted NaCl: CaCl2 + 2NaHCO3 = > CaCO3 + 2NaCl +H2O +CO2
A lot of people assume that additional presence of Sodium Chloride is harmless, as long as salinity is maintained at the desired level. Salinity however is not just a measure of table salt in H2O. Magnesium sulphate, Calcium sulphate, Potassium sulphate, Magnesium chloride, Calcium chloride and Potassium chloride are actually salts too, so when Sodium and Chloride levels rise, the natural balance of major elements is shifted. Incidentally the salinity might remain stable, but only due to excessive presence of Sodium Chloride. In a closed aquarium ecosystem the impact of NaCl build-up might be significant.
Many aquarists mistakenly assume that this issue can be easily corrected by regular water changes. Keep in mind however, that the only way to revert to the original water parameters would be with a 100% water change, while hardly anyone is replacing more than 10% weekly.
The use of NaCl free salt is not so common any more, and application of the Balling method is often limited to 2 or sometimes 3 of its main components. This approach will probably not cause any problems for several weeks or even months, but in the meantime the chemical reactions that take place in the marine aquarium will lead to a deficit of trace elements. Balling “Two Part” or “Light” is gaining in popularity, but the truth is that the old, but revolutionary original method was much more effective when it comes to maintaining stable water parameters. Regular use of NaCl free salt is highly recommended to help address ionic imbalance issues in the long run.
Collapsible content
LIGHT
LOW: Place coral at the bottom of the tank. Depending on the type, coral may need to be placed off sand and therefore mounted on a ceramic disc of piece of rock.
MEDIUM: Place coral at mid-range of the tank. Best placed/glued on top of a rock scape at mid-range height.
HIGH: Place coral from mid range to just below water level. SPS coral are shallow growing so they require and are able to tolerate intense light.
FLOW
LOW: Most soft coral do well with a small, gentle pulse. There are certain corals that can even be placed in areas of indirect flow, meaning places aside a rock structure or set into a entrance to a cave style space.
MEDIUM: Many LPS types of coral prefer medium pulse current. Most Euphyllia or corals that have more tissue structure connected to their skeleton, don’t like to be in a high flow area like the direct flow of the wave pump.
HIGH: Similar to high light, SPS enjoy being in some heavy current. Most LPS and SPS that branch encrust or plate prefer high flow that simulates the top water waves.
SKILL
ENTRY: While some may say beginner level, "Entry" is a good term to be used when starting out in the world of corals and marine life. Prior to adding livestock, you want to ensure that your reef has the proper parameters including zero levels of ammonia and nitrite. Seeing traces of nitrate in your waters is a good sign - just keep them at a lower level of 2ppm to 10ppm. Maintaining correct temperature and salinity are a huge factor to stable parameters. Starting to monitor your PH, alkalinity, calcium and magnesium is a great habit to get into to keep a successful reef.
While some soft coral don’t require too much light, having a proper reef light that puts out the proper pars is very important. You'll also want to have a good amount of flow and protected rock areas, as placing corals in their happy spot is ideal for success.
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